Fısherman Pant

 Bu tarz pantalonlardan  hoşlanıyorsanız aşağıda kolay yoldan yapımını bulabilirsiniz. Hangı tarz o tarz diyorsanız :

It’s nearly impossible to find free sewing patterns on the ‘Net, so here are the patterns and how-to instructions for two styles of unisex casual pants I made yesterday. Now you can make your own.

Thai Fisherman’s Pants
These are one-size fits-all pants that wrap around and tie with a sash. Very comfy and stylish, too. You can use almost any weight fabric—from silk to lightweight denim. The Thai ones are cotton or rayon. Make sure your fabric looks nice on both sides; I did mine with a contrasting top panel because the print I used for the legs looked ugly on the reverse.

You’ll need
2 meters fabric
matching thread
About an hour.

Cutting:

top panel (2): 25 cm x 75 cm
legs (2): 75 cm x 85 cm, with a curved 50 x 10 strip cut away on each side
tie (1): 6 cm x 140 cm

I measured and cut directly on the fabric without a paper pattern. Don’t forget to add extra for the seams. I usually do 1 cm all around.

If you’re using fabric with a directional pattern, cut the cloth in half widthwise and turn the fabric so that the pattern runs the same direction on both legs.

Construction:

1. Sew the short ends of the top panel to form a large hoop. Hem one edge of the hoop.
2. Sew the center front seam.
3. Sew the center back seam.
4. Starting at the center and working out, sew the inseam.
5. Attach the top panel to the legs.
6. Construct the sash and attach to the top panel at the back.
7. Hem the legs.

Points:
French seam the top panel sides so there are no raw edges.
Finish the top panel edge with a tiny hem.
Attached the belt securely to the center back of the top panel.

To wear them, slip them on and hold the edges out from you (like a diet “after” picture). Pull one side tight against your body and bring the rest of the fabric across yourself to form an S curve. Bring the ties around your waist and knot. Fold the top down over the ties.

Comfy Pants
These baggy pajama pants are derived from the mompe slacks in John Marshall’s “Make your Own Japanese Clothes.” An elastic waist makes them really easy to wear. You can increase the width of the leg opening to get a more skirt-like palazzo pant.

This pattern needs to be drafted onto paper, but it’s not difficult to do at all. Once you’ve done it, you can use it over and over, or until you size changes.

You’ll need
2.2 meters fabric, depending on your leg length
elastic for the waistband (your waist + 5 cm)
matching thread
a ruler
a calculator
a crayon or colored marker
a sheet or two of newspaper
tape
About 90 minutes.

Drafting:
Measure yourself (it’s much easier if you have help with these!)

Hips ________ cm

Waist to floor ________ cm

Crotch to floor________ cm

Around ankle and heel ________ cm

Now lay out your newspaper so that it matches the waist to floor measurement. Tape together if necessary.

Front Leg: 

1. From one corner of the paper, measure 1/3 your hip measurement and mark it. 
2. Move over 1/12 of your hip measurement and mark that. 
3. At the 1/3 + 1/12 point, draw a line all the way down the paper.
4. At the bottom, mark the width of the leg opening. (1/2 the ankle-heel + 5 cm)
5. Calculate the inseam: crotch to floor minus 5 cm.
6. Using a tape measure stretch to the inseam length, make a diagonal from the end of the leg opening to the 1/3 + 1/12 line.
7. Draw a gentle J-shaped curve from the end of the inseam to the 1/3 mark.

Back Leg:
Same as the front leg, but use 1/3 plus 1/8 of your hip measurement. This allows a little extra room for your derriere.

Cutting:
Follow the pattern, adding seam allowance all around, plus about 8 cm at the top for the elastic casing and 5 cm (or more) at the bottom for a hem.

Construction:

1. Sew the center front seam and center back seam.
2. Starting at the center and working down the leg, sew the inseam.
3. Sew the side seams.
4. Hem the legs.
5. Construct the casing and thread the elastic through.

Çözebilirseniz Kolay Gelsin. Ben başka  açıklayıcı site var mı ona bakiiim :)))

Yarasa Kollu Bluz Yapimi

Bu videodaki kizi cok kotu dovucem yakalarsam. O tripler ne playboya poz verir gibi anlamadim ki..Ama basinda duzgun biri olsa dogru yolu bulur bu kiz..Uygun bi aday  bulup bas goz edicem ben bunu. Diksin yapistirsin, kirsin dizini otursun evinde :) Hayir marifetli de...nooluyo o hem guzelim hem seksiyim havalari ..
 Neyse bu bacim kolay yoldan yarasa kol bluz yapimi icin yol gostermis...Uyduruk uyduruk patronsuz yapiveriyo..Kendi minnacik tabii onda farkedilmiyo, biz yapsak comakla durterler! Linkler asagida:

http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to-make-stylish-bat-sleeve-326452/


http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Your-Own-Bat-Sleeve-Blouse/


Bu da ayni catlagin harem style pantalon yapisi :)

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Your-Own-Super-Stylish-Harem-Pants/

Kazak Kolundan Bot Yapmak

Asagidaki linkte adim adim eski bir kazagin kollarindan nasil bot yapacaginiz anlatiliyor. Ben yapsam yamuk yumuk olur kesin. Bununki sahane olmus. Denemek lazim...Soz konusu botun resmi bu:

Yapilisi da burada:


http://www.instructables.com/id/Upcycled-Sweater-Boots/

Kolay Gelsin

Wrap lı Giysi Yapmak

Wrap lı (O ne demekse artık :) ben de yeni öğreniyorum bu yolla) giysiler yapmanın kolay yollarını anlatan bir link. Güzel anlatmış da hep yapılmışını görüyoruz. Keşke o kadar kolay olsa :)

wrap dress pattern

Here is the promised pattern for a wrap-around dress to fit a 2-3 year old, approx. Please keep in mind that I am not an expert dressmaker, nor do I have perfect bias-tape skills, but I thought I would share the general guidelines for making a dress like this, in case you have a small girl who would like one.  

**Disclaimer** When I was making measurements for this pattern, I realised I shuffle and adjust the pieces a bit while I am sewing until the dress 'sits right' and/or fits the child properly. The wrap design is a forgiving one! So don't worry if your pattern is not exactly like the one in my drawing- it should still turn out fine. Maths and measurements are NOT my forte- I like to think of myself as an 'intuitive' sewer- so please, treat my pattern as a 'guideline' only.
This dress was inspired by a combination of two different dresses owned by my daughter: one store-bought, and one I made with guidelines from the vintage Japanese craft book 'Cute infants outgrow clothes quickly' (Kamakura Shobo Publishing Co, Ltd, 1984). It can be worn either way around- with the crossed part at the front, or the back, as shown above.
It's great in summer by itself, or in cooler weather worn over leggings or trousers and warm tops. As your child grows, the dress will become a wrap-top, but it should be easy to adjust for a bigger child- just cut the patterns out longer.
*Please note* 1/4" seam allowance is included. Other measurements are in cms.
You will need: 
*paper, pen, ruler and scissors for making your pattern
*sewing machine and thread
*a piece of fabric approx. 90 cms wide, and 55 cms long. I use a medium-weight, cotton/linen blend fabric when I make this dress. You could also use linen, cotton, gingham (I made a green gingham  version here), lightweight denim or corduroy.
*either store-bought or home-made bias tape- about 610cms long.
1. Make your bias tape. You will need two pieces that measure approx. 28 cms for the front sides, two pieces that measure approx. 35cms for the armholes, and one long piece measuring approx. 2.5 meters for the rest of the dress plus ties. I make double-fold tape using my rotary cutter and ruler- cutting strips of fabric that are the same width as the ruler (7.5 cms/3"). If this is your first time applying bias tape, you might find this easier to use than the narrower store-bought type. A tutorial on making bias tape is here. I like to use vintage cotton sheets - it's a great way to recycle them, and the old patterns look great with a plain-coloured dress. (There is another way to make bias tape, as shown here. You can also buy cool little gadgets that make the tape for you.)
2.  Make yourself a pattern based on my drawings below (soon to be replaced with clearer ones- sorry!). Adjust the length if necessary. Fold fabric, right sides together, and place the 'back' pattern piece along the fold. Pin both fronts and back pieces to fabric, and cut out.
 
Front pieces- (place fabric right sides together)
 
Back piece- cut 1, on fold.
3. Sew shoulder seams. Zig-zag or overlock (serge) to finish.
4. Sew down ONE side of the dress to join. Now finish the seam, and finish both unsewn edges of the other side of the dress. Now sew this side together, but leave a gap about 7cms down, measuring about 2.5cms. This is for the tie to pass through.


Now it's time to apply the bias tape. You'll need a steam iron and lots of pins near by. I'm no expert when it comes to doing this, but I find that with practice, the technique gets easier. There are some online tutorials to help if you're new to this- here's one: Basic application of bias binding
5. Apply bias tape to the straight sides of both front pieces. Don't worry about finishing the edges- they will be covered later.
 
6. Apply bias tape to the armholes.

7. Apply the long piece of bias tape to the rest of the dress, starting at the half-way point on the neck. The neck and front trim and ties are all in one piece. As you go, cover the raw edges of the dress fronts, like so:

8. Zig-zag/overlock the hem edge. Then press up a hem and sew in place.

9. Press dress and trim loose threads. Pass one tie through the interior opening, wrap it over at the back, and tie in front. Voila!

I added a pocket to this one, cut from the leftover piece where the neckline is cut from the fabric.
Have fun (and good luck.)

Gül Yapımı Aşırma

Felt rose tutorial

Following interest from Tasia and Lily, I decided to post a tutorial on making felt roses, which helped to distract me from the major fitting issues I'm having with Vogue 5510!

To make these lovely accessories, you will need some felt or some pre-shrunk wool (I used an old jumper that I washed at a really high temperature). You can use other fabrics too, although many of them are prone to fraying.

Step 1: Cut out 7 circles of fabric, approximately 7cm in diameter.

Step 2: Cut each circle in half, to make 14 semi-circles. Using a gathering stitch, sew half way along the straight edge of one petal. Then overlap the next petal and stitch through both layers until you are half-way along the next petal. Carry on until you've used all petals and stitch right to the end of the last petal.

Step 3: You should end up with all your petals layered on one piece of thread. Slightly gather the petals.

Step 4: Starting at one end of the string of petals, gently roll the fabric up. Take care at this stage to make sure that the stitched edges remain close together and that the middle of the rose doesn't start to spiral out of the top.

Step 5: Gently hold the rose upside down so you can see the stitched  edges. You now want to stitch from the outside of the rose to the middle and then back out again. Continue doing this all the way around (it's a bit like sewing spokes in a wheel).

Step 6: VIOLA! You are now the proud owner of a beautiful felt rose! Obviously you can now sew a safety pin to the bottom so that you can pin it onto anything and everything that takes your fancy ;o)